Monday, October 6, 2014

Kazimierz, the Jewish Ghetto of Krakow

Poland I would say is the cradle of the Holocaust. There is no other country in Europe that lost so many Jews and suffered the most than Poland. The country was torn apart during the Second World War and they were not only under the Nazi jurisdiction, but the Slovaks and the Soviet Union as well.


The Nazis have concentration camps all throughout Europe, from Norway down to Italy. Italy (Mussolini) and Spain (Franco) were allies of Germany and have cooperated well with Hitler. These concentration camps range from being labor camps to transit camps, prison camps, collection points, sometimes ghettos and lastly, extermination camps. The Nazi design was to have Poland pigeonholed for the build and execution of extermination camps. You can just imagine the atmosphere in the country during that time—the thick aroma of death was everywhere. People feared for their lives as well as for their loved ones. I’ll expound more about this in my Auschwitz entry soon.



When the Nazis invaded Krakow, they quickly moved all the Polish Jews to Kazimierz, a neighborhood just outside Stare Miasto. Below you will see fotos of present-day Kazimierz.

Although Kazimierz might have changed through the years, I can personally feel the ‘ghetto’ ambiance here. That stale lingering accent on the air, it’s not sickening—in fact it is surprisingly charming and friendly. Kazimierz has its own magnetism, decrepit yet full of character and charisma, kind of a bit hard to explain you know. I’ve been to the Jewish ghetto in Prague, Josefov and that place doesn’t really remind me of a ghetto, whilst compared to Kazimierz—Kazimierz come across more authentic, like life just picked up after the war. Maybe I am dismembering the details too much. You’ll have to see it for yourself and feel the place.



Left foto is Jozefa street in Kazimierz and on the right is a corner cafe terrace along Estery street right across the Nowy square.





Those plaques up on the wall I find quite charming. On the right foto, at first I thought it was just the usual graffiti art that proliferates in every ghetto, and then I saw Maxwell House (terrible coffee).





This is Nowy square. On top is an antique market and below are produce from the local market in the square and the trader's hall, once a slaughterhouse, now renovated, those windows are food stalls and pretty much a local favorite.





Kazimierz - more snug scenes of the neighborhood here.





More of the Jewish quarter here, you can see Hebrew written on doors and walls, and a close up foto of the infamous Star of David.





The Kupa Synagogue circa 17th century, the venue of the Jewish Culture Festival in Krakow and foto on the right, Yidishland exhibition in Kazimierz.





Left foto on the corner of Bartosza leading to Szeroka square which is on the right foto where all the lively and colorful cafe terraces convene.





Moi in Szeroka square having espresso coffee and Zubrowka vodka shot and of course my view to the square and the cafe terraces. It was a beautiful day.





Left foto shows a map of the Jewish Heritage Route; middle foto is a white grand piano on Wolnica square, these grand piano sculptures are scattered all over Krakow; on the right is the biggest Catholic Church in the Jewish ghetto, Bozego Ciala.





Here are Jewish trading stores preserved as they were 65-85 years ago.



More fotos here: Kazimierz, Krakow, Poland


Kazimierz is also the location of the infamous ‘Schindlers List’ (1993) movie. I didn’t get to see the factory because it was located in a different area and I was too lazy to walk over there, instead I parked myself on a café terrace in Szeroka square and enjoyed the beautiful sun, an espresso and 2 vodka shots of Zubrowka. Now that is life. I will try Belvedere and Chopin next time. Interestingly, while reading about vodka, I’ve come across a list of best rated vodkas in the world and I was surprised to find 2 Dutch brands among the Eastern European brands and 1 Swedish on the top 10 list!—Ketel One Vodka and Vox Vodka. I didn’t know the Dutch are into vodka?! Hmm, I better go to the alcohol store and check them out =0

Roman Polanski as well once lived here as a child during the Nazi occupation. I’ve watched his ‘The Pianist’ film (2002) set in Warsaw—ah, another lovely place to visit soon. That film is just outstanding, rightful for the award.






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