Christmas rains bring drytooling ambitions

Christmas day Slammed the local ice. The 40+ degreees and rain were devastating. The ice delaminated, the locked in tundra turned to mush. All bad things! Well as a last minute plan, Joel Toretti who had planned a trip to VT for the weekend, bagged the idea of heading north for the rainfest. So we made the best of the warm 40+ degrees for some drytool training. Joel, Laura and I met and decided to head to Ohiopyle for some picking and scratching. We first made a trip to the Upper Meadow amphitheater to look at the steeeep cave feature. We managed to get about halfway up one of the lines to the right side. Quite a bit loose rock to be found. Very steep and pumpy, we each took 2 burns on the new line. It still awaits an ascent. After our attempts at Upper Meadow, we went downstream to Lower. We all three tooled around on the various lines, Anger Management, Season Finale and var., we also rigged up the overhang to the left of Season Finale. Which is a short but stout technical route that Joel and I managed to get up. It was Laura's first day out after taking an illness absence for several days. She climbed well with her most impressive showing on the left Var to Season Finale. All in all it was a great day out in unreal "ice" conditions. The 10 day forcast looks very promising and should have the ice lines firmed back up to a climbable state. The annual New Years Climbing Resolution should have ice this year. We'll wait and see.

Old Town, Albuquerque, NM

Albuquerque's Old Town encompasses about ten blocks of historic adobe buildings. We enter from

the Art Museum parking lot.





It is a maze of courtyards







and Gardens





and adobe buildings. Here is a cut-out showing the adobe construction.







Then you hit the Town Square. Old Town looks much like it did when it was founded. It consists of about 10 blocks of historic adobe buildings, shops and Native crafts.






The focal point of the Square is the San Felipe Church. It is the oldest building in the City - built in 1793.






This was the 306th Founders Day.






The Plaza was buzzing with activity.






Native American Dancers










AMariachi Band played in the Gazebo.






Sundays are Free at the Art Museum so we visited it. No pictures allowed inside the Museum but they have a great Sculpture Garden outside. This sculpture depicts Don Juan de Oñate leading the first group of Spanish colonists into New Mexico.This did not meet with unanimous approval. We learned a little bit about him at the Gutierrez Hubbell House. Another statue of Onate erected just outside Espanola, NM had it's right foot cut off by a protestor. It seems that Onatepillaged, raped, mutilated (cutting the right foot off of captured males) and murdered the native americans. Eventually he was tried for his crimes, incarcerated for a short timeand then exiled from New Mexico forever. So why they are honoring this guy left and right is beyond me.















Till Later!




Meanwhile, we keep on Trek'n




Melissa, Gary & Tucson

Happy Trails! Tips for Long Rides

Though not all will agree with this, I believe that in order to honestly say that you areableto cyclea given distance, it has to mean that you are able to do itsuccessfully. In other words, if you managed to complete a long ride, but could not walk the next day as a result, that does not count as "success"!

I consider my first half-century (50 mile) ride to have happened this summer - despite having once cycled that distance in Austria some time ago. That earlier trip was a disaster, and I wish somebody had warned me against it. Emboldened by having gone on a handful of short rides, one day I just kept going and going - and didn't stop despite feeling discomfort and pain. Riding a rental bike with a plush vinyl saddle and sub-optimal geometry, I pushed myself well past my limits, ignoring my body's warning signs. And after the ride was over, I could not cycle for over two weeks.

That incident served as a painful lesson: Being able to handle long rides was not about exceeding my abilities. It was about staying within my abilities - while working to gradually expand them. When I finally did my first "real" 50 mile ride this summer, I was ready for it and it felt fantastic. Only then did I feel that I could truly say "Now I can cycle a half century".

Having received emails asking for advice on taking long rides, I offer some tips based on personal experience. Think of these as food for thought!



1. Build up to it. Even if you think you can do it, don't start with a long ride. Start with short rides and gradually increase the distance. Ideally, a ride should still leave you able to cycle the next day.

2. Make sure your bicycle is comfortable. The only way to do this is to get to know your bicycle, which, once again, can only happen over time and over gradually increased distances. The way a bicycle feels on short rides is not an indicator of how it will feel on a long ride. It also takes time to break in a saddle and to "dial in" your optimal sitting position on a new bicycle.

3.Make informed and practical clothing choices.The very same pants that feel great on a 10 mile ride, can make your crotch bleed by mile 50 - as the seams begin to chafe against the delicate skin in that part of the body. By increasing distance gradually, you will be able to spot problematic tendencies before they turn into actual problems and cause damage.

4. Consider terrain. A hilly ride is far more difficult than the same distance covered on flat terrain. You may be perfectly capable of completing a 50 mile ride in Kansas, yet find it impossible in Vermont.

5. Shift gears. The longer and hillier the ride, the more you should be switching gears. Make it a point to switch to a lower gear when going uphill, even if it feels like you do not "need" to. Otherwise, you will waste your energy on tackling hills and will not have enough left to endure the ride. As a rule of thumb, it is good to aim for pedaling at the same rate throughout your ride. If you find your legs moving slower, because it is difficult to turn the pedals, that is a sign that you need to switch to a lower gear.

6. Expect to make adjustments to your bike, and possibly replacements. If something does not work for you, admit it and do something about it. This may include replacing components such as your saddle, handlebars, grips, gear shifters, etc. - or even your bicycle itself. Sometimes we read great reviews of things, and yet these things turn out not to be right for us. Get something that works foryou.

7. Eat and drink. Cycling can suppress your appetite and trick you into thinking that you are not hungry... until you crash and find yourself completely unable to continue. This weird phenomenon can really sneak up on you. If you are going on a long ride, make it a point to snack when you take water breaks. Some people like energy bars and energy drinks, while others believe them to be unhealthy. I prefer trail mix or chocolate to energy bars. And adding some lemon juice and (a pinch of) salt to your water bottle makes for an effective, all-natural electrolyte replacement drink.

8. Most importantly, listen to your body and go at your own pace. Have realistic expectations and be patient. So you envisioned yourself crossing the Alps this summer, yet you can't manage more than 20 miles on your local rail-trail? So what! Enjoy those 20 miles and keep doing them over and over. One day you will surprise yourself.

Autumn is the best season of the year for cycling. Happy trails!

Nespresso mania, just a fading trend?

The Netherlands is without a doubt a coffee country. Tea as well. Fact is, the Netherlands was the first country to trade coffee beans (and tea leaves). The amount of coffee drank in this country is just incredible, unimaginable even. In the recent years though, gourmet coffee has managed to sneak in slowly but surely into the kitchens of the average Dutch. This started with the outdated Philips Senseo and now, the most sought-after, Nespresso.

At my workplace here in the Netherlands we have a big Nespresso machine. At our EMEA headquarters in Geneve we have a much bigger Nespresso machine that fits to a wall. Because I am in field sales I am not always in the office, but when I am, I make sure to take a cup or two or three a day—usually espresso. At my customers and business partners they normally serve me Douwe Egberts which I do not mind at all.

When travelling, I have my guaranteed daily dose of espresso fix at lovely cafes matched with some people watching.

At home though, I rarely drink coffee. I have my special tea for breakfast and for after dinner. However lately, I have been thinking of buying a Nespresso machine to address those rare days that I am craving for a shot of black goodness espresso at home.

The Dutchman on the other hand is the only Dutch man in the Netherlands that drinks instant coffee—Nescafe. Most Dutch would not even touch this, lol.

So I went to Bijenkorf Utrecht last weekend to have a look and feel of these coffee machines and this is what I found:

Ah, there seems to be no recession here at Bijenkorf. Business is doing very well. There is always an unbelievably long line here every weekend at the Nespresso corner. People are ready to put out extra money for gourmet coffee.


Nevertheless, I am still not sure if I should buy a Nespresso machine. Well, don’t get me wrong. I am a coffee lover but its seems that my love for coffee is inevitably only at work and when I am travelling. So we shall see... in the meantime, I will check out the china department for ideas of my next set.

Here is a TRIVIA:
‘Did you know that the most expensive coffee in the world is found only in the Philippines (Kape Alamid) and Indonesia (Kopi Luwak)? Its called CIVET coffee in English.’

I'm going to grab one when I am back in Asia towards the end of the year.

What a Delight They Are!

Today at The Library, I met the You Go Genealogy Girls! They are delightful ladies, fun to talk with, and boy do they have some stories to tell... I saw Ruby at one of the microfilm scanner stations and thought she looked familiar (I did know they were coming here – after all, I do read their blog). So I went up to her and asked if she was one of the YGGG. (Thank goodness she was, I sure would have felt silly if she hadn't been.) We had a nice conversation then a few minutes later she brought Cheri over. To make a long story short, we snagged someone at the microfilm readers to take a photo of the four of us. The one the lady took with my camera was way out of focus but I think Carol has a good shot of all of us that she will post soon. [added May 27th - photo posted by Carol. Very good.]





Cheri Hopkins YGGG#2 and Ruby Coleman YGGG#1

Taking a tip from Carol, I decided to scan microfilm images of estate and probate records for several ancestors today. Back in the late 1980s I had taken a research trip to Ohio and had photocopied the “important” papers (those naming heirs) but that was it. I was able to find the estate records for three ancestors and scanned them. I'm hoping to get some clues from the names of the people who purchased some of the goods from the estates. And it's nice to have copies of all of the information from the estates.



There's still another week left! And I'm still hoping for that “Happy Dance” moment!

Abandoned Gear

In the 05/06 winter, three separate climbing teams reported being caught in significant storms. Two were below Camp Muir, and one was higher on the Ingraham Glacier.

While getting lost or pinned down in a storm on Mount Rainier isn't that unusual given the time of year, it was interesting to note that all three teams retreated to snowcaves. Pure and simple, shovels are mandatory. And that means one for each person. One team said that they broke three of their shovels while digging. Thankfully, there were four of them!

These teams were helped by their size; two were 4-person, one was 5. It’s a lot easier to pull through a storm with extra people around. And as the storms relented, each team made their way back to Paradise without assistance, but not without some cost.

Two of the teams abandoned a significant amount of equipment; gear such as tents, bags, stoves and pads. Each stated that they could not retrieve all of the equipment because of the intensity of the storm and snow accumulation. Tents, for example, were nearly impossible to dig out. To them, it seemed safer to retreat; this is a tough decision to make.

It can’t be overstated, winter AND spring storms can be particularly fierce on Mount Rainier. If you’re pinned down and must abandon camp (high winds, snowfall, avalanche/icefall exposure), do all you can to retrieve at least your stove, pad, clothing and bag. One tip is to pack your pack before exiting the tent.

Though a rapid exodus to Paradise or Camp Muir may seem appealing given the current circumstances, it has also led to many notable accidents and fatalities. Caught on the mountain with only a shovel and few odds and ends is a downright brutal experience to live through.

Photo by Mike Gauthier

Springfield VT From My Window

This is a wonderful town. The houses are great with their big wide front porches. The business buildings are old and brick for the most part. And there are flowers everywhere. Such a pretty place to visit!

Enjoying a ‘canchanchara cocktail’ and a serenade at the La Canchanchara Bar in Trinidad

I mentioned previously that Blondine and I drank our way through Cuba. We literally sampled all alcoholic concoction that is being thrust in front of us. Now, we are happy to report that we both like Trinidad’s famous fresh cocktail drink called ‘canchanchara’.

Canchanchara is a mixture of rum, honey, lemon juice, water and some ice. The base of a Cuban cocktail drink is always rum. You can enjoy this drink everywhere in Trinidad and in Cuba actually, however, in Trinidad, there is the ‘La Canchanchara Bar’ faithfully offering this drink to visitors.

Blondine and I went there of course and after ordering our canchancharas, we were exclusively serenaded by some locals. Very sweet! And we met the funny ‘Jose’ as well! It was late in the afternoon so there were not many people in the bar. We almost had the place to ourselves =)

Inside the La Canchanchara bar... not busy as it was very late in the afternoon. Trinidad is not like Havana. It is not rundown with tourists.

Canchanchara is a very refreshing cocktail drink. You will have to stir the drink until the honey at the bottom mixes with the drink.

And we got serenaded!

The serenade video at La Canchanchara Bar in Trinidad.

Jose was such a funny guy! He makes us laugh the whole time.

We were told that it gets lively here at the La Canchanchara bar in the evenings. There is music, dancing and all. Jose even told us that he will personally teach us salsa and cha-cha-cha dance if we come back in the evening.

Well, after dinner that night, Blondine and I were so tired, so we opted instead for a relaxing evening back at our farm hotel. A bit boring eh?

The Paradox of Long Rides

Since describing my overnight ride to Maine last week, I've received an unexpected amount of correspondence from readers who feel drawn to long bike rides, but aren't sure they can handle them physically. The only other time I've had such a volume of email, was after my 100 mile ride along the Danube last Autumn - a similar theme. There is considerable interest out there in long distance cycling among those who love bikes but are not necessarily athletic.




Here is an excerpt from an email from Barbara that sums up the sentiment nicely:




"...[I am] not a strong cyclist, but I just loved your description of riding to Maine in the moonlight. I want to do a ride like this so much, it makes me want to cry! Can the weaklings among us experience a similar journey, or am I a hopeless romantic?"




This resonated with me, because it pretty much expresses my own point of view. I love the idea of covering long distances by bicycle, of experiencing beauty and adventure along the way,of bonding with companions as our wheels hum and our headlights illuminate the road. In my imagination, I do not envision this as an athletic activity or an endurance event. Ideally, it would be just a very long bike ride.




And therein lies the paradox: Yes, it is possible to experience long distance cycling from this perspective. But in order to do so, we have to get to the point where we are strong enough, so that a 100+ mile ride feels like a fun adventure and not like a physical feat we've just barely managed to survive. And this, in turn, means working up to it and getting in shape for it.




How is this different from just riding? I suspect there is more than one answer. But the way I interpret it, the crucial difference is that the rides are more structured - with the goal of building up miles, speed, and time in the saddle. Prior to last summer, I never followed any kind of structure, hoping that my endurance and handling skills would just build up organically, inspired by the joy of riding alone. I am sorry to say that this did not happen. Only when I started taking part in club rides,met experienced riding partners,and adapted a more focused approach, did I undergo significant improvements. The structure and discipline changed my body, ultimately giving me more freedom. This may not be the path for everyone, but I am being honest about what it's been like for me.




While the readers who contacted me about long distance riding did so seeking some form of insight, it was in fact I who ended up gaining insight from them; insofar that they helped me recognise this contradiction. I am sometimes asked what my goal in roadcycling is. And I think that my goal, if any, is to get to the point where riding long distance is entirely about the journey and the scenery, not about overcoming physical limitations. But I am willing to work on overcoming those limitations in order to get to that point.

1+1 doesn't always make 2 aka "Climbing Insulation"

60g Nano Puff pullover as the outer layer, mid winter, 12K feet






"Rainier this summer...then Orizaba, Kili, Aconcagua and Denali!"





That is a common hit list for the aspiring alpinist wanting to get in some altitude.

So it is just as common to answer questions about the gear required to make that dream come true.



I had to walk down tomy gear room andcount the synthetic and down jackets I own specifically to climb in. The count is split 50/50 between Primaloft One andDown in the 850 fill range.



The reason I mention the 50/50 split and not the numbers (besides embarrassing myself as a clothes hog) is to hopefullyshow I am not biased one way or the other for insulation. The only thing I care about is "will it work for my own use".



In the last few years the one item of clothing that has impressed me way beyond any other is a 60g weight Primaloft or Coreloft layer. Most easily identified as theArcteryx Atom Lt or the Patagonia Nano Puff series are 60g. But almost everyone makes one these days.



I first saw full zip and hooded prototype samples from Mtn Hardware (which eventually became the Compressorwith100g layer Primaloft and then changed again). The RAB Xenonis very close at 60g to the original prototype and one of my current lwt.favorites. And then Patagonia Nano Puff pullovers started showing up in places I never thought reasonable. Pictures of one or the other from the top of the Grand Jorasses in winter and summit of Denali early Spring for example. Not as inner layering pieces mind you but as the outer insulated shells. All 60g of that Primaloft One being used to the fullest.



I have Down sweaters that are every bit as capable...as long as you can keep them dry. Asmid weight insulation and yourouter climbinglayer Downdoesn't stand a chanceif you are working hardunless the sun is out and it is cold and dry. When the moon and stars align Down will work fine. The rest of the time given the chance, Primaloft is what I'll bet on. And more importantly if I'll be working hard and know I'll eventually need the insulation I am wearing, Primaloft is a better bet to still be working at full value when it is required.



But lets face it is you can get by with only 60gs of Primaloft it isn't very cold outside. Even mid winter at 12K feet.OR you mustbe working pretty hard!Some time back I was laughed at for saying I sweated and got my insulation wet on lead. Work hard enough on technical ground or go fast enough on easy ground and you'll sweat. How you are able to manage that moisture in your insulation is key.



Soak it out and replace it is an option for approaches. But that won't work on the actual climb generally past your gloves. So having clothingthat will dry out in use and most importantly keep you dry while movingis always going to be important if you are working hard enough.



Back to the layers? As I continued to pay attention to other climbers kit Istarted noticing a few guys using two 60g layers. That is 120g plus the 4 layers of nylon in some even colder places. 100g jackets are common enough as light weight belay jackets. How about layering a 60g jacket and a 100g jacket? The Arcteryx Atom SV and Patagonia Micro Puff are 100g jackets. The Patagonia DAS 170g.



With two lessor layers of insulation but more versatile garments youare now bettering a DAS' insulationwith the two additionallayers of nylon shell.



I find it humorousthat people still want to argue which insulation (down or synthetic) is the better one for the outdoors. For many that might be Down. But anyone who really has to rely on the insulation they climb in will generally bring a synthetic jacket and a down bag. I saw plenty of Down jackets on skiers last winter. None on the climbers in the huts or on the lifts fwiw.



Here is a more varied discussion onthe samebasic topic:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1055771/1



Last winter I had down and synthetic jackets with me. When I skied I too used Down. It was also clear and sunny every time we skied. When I climbed I used synthetics. Much of the timeit was with several layers intentionally.



There are some good down jackets available. Some of the betterones I have seen were reviewed here. on the blog.



I have a good many choices in the closet and find myself actually using2 layers of 60g. a lot. Or a 60g layer and a 100g layer. When it is really cold I'll add two 60g layers andthe 100g pieceas thethird layer.



Remember the idea is to stay dry, to stay warm. Layers allow you to regulateyour heat output and just as important how much heat you conserve. And how mobile you are as well. Options in the mountain are always a good thing if you don't have to pay a premium for them. If you gain something..like mobility it is a win!



Layering synthetics(or even a combination of down/down or down/syntheticsfor that matter) is just another option to think about. And one way to avoid ever buying that heavy weight belay jacket that you likely will never use andjust as likely never want to carry.






Layered up for the -30 temps and a bivy

4 layers of Synthetic, top down, 60/100/60 and 60.




Two previous posts thatyou might find interesting on down/synthetics




http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//11/daniel-harros-climb-stay-dry-to-stay.html




http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//11/staying-warm-generally-means-staying.html

Hike to Grotto Falls

Our travel buddies arrived yesterday, but we didn't meet up until later that night. Today they joined us as we made our way back to the National Park. We picked what we thought would be a very short hike, because we were concerned about how Josh would do. Somehow we messed up. We picked a trail that was twice as long as yesterday's hike. Let's just say that we didn't need to worry about Josh one bit. He hiked faster than all of us and didn't seem tired at all. I can't say the same for me. My calves are still on fire!