Sunday, November 30, 2008

Wiley in the Trash

Our kitten Wiley decided to play in a little trash can the other day. He looked so cute I had to take his picture.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

The Pier at Fort DeSoto

After seeing the inside of the fort, we decided to go up on top of it and walk around. We wanted to get a better look at what else was at the park. We saw a nice beach. Excellent!



Then we look the other way and see a fishing pier and more beach. Even better!



Let's zoom in here and get a closer look:



Yup, that's where we want to head next! We take the short walk over there. We watch the fisherpeople fishing. We watch the birds and note how fearless of humans they are here.





And then the truly magical moment happened:



I saved the best for last-dolphins! I will tell you more about them tomorrow!



Living the life in Florida!

What one learns and Second Chances...

In the past few weeks I have learned a good bit about myself.



With some after thought I guess I have learned more about myself, people in generaland our relationships when I have been injured.



In early September I was diagnosed with Stage 4 Tonsillar Cancer which is HPV P16 driven. If you are going to get Tonsillar cancer, pray it is HPV P16 driven. (more on second chances in a minute)



http://www.komonews.com/news/health/132764463.html?tab=video



Up first was a "radical neck dissection" to remove the tumors. I was pulling 5.10 a week after surgery so how "radical"can it be? Now Radiation and Chemo follow. I'll be fine in the end. A little worse for the wear and tear may be but pounds lighter and seconds faster. It won't hurt my climbing in the long run is my guess at this point.I will come out of this even healthier and more fit than I have been in a long time. But not a fitness and weight loss program I would recommend either.



So I get a second chance. A cancer they can cure. And a new lease on life witha rebuilt body after loosing 25% of my body mass from chemo and rad.



We all make promises. Some you intend to keep and others you know you will unlikely be able to keep. Most of us do what we can and with some effort more than we might have thought possible until pushed.



I had first intendedto keep my health issues quiet. But as I realised there wasn't an easily accessed body of knowledge on how to get through this I started asking for beta from any of myfriends (and their friends) that might have some insight into a this particular cancer and treatment that would eventually strip me of 25% of my body mass. It all seemed pretty damn scary at the beginning. A little less so now even after dropping 20# in the first six days of treatment. And my friends pulled through for me. Thank you, THANK YOU!



To pay back that debt I will eventually start a new blog documenting this entire experience in detail so it will hopefully bea little less scary for the next guy.



Ten days ago I was unsure if I would ever be able to walk again let alone climb. The initial chemo shattered me physically and mentally in a short 6 days. Not something I easily admit to, but there it is.

Water boarding? Shit, try Cysplatinum.



I, like many who ride a bike, often wonder if Lance did drugs to win those Tours. I don'tneed to wonderany more. Lance did weeksof Csyplantium. I'm only required to do a fewdays. Lance has been requiredto suffer more than most can ask to endure. I suspect that is how he won Tours. Chemo drugs may have taughthim the secrets of sufferingbut no one in their right mind wants the education.







My friends, familyand and our extended climbing family have been the BEST. People have reached out to help and support me, someI hardly know. But I "know" them now. It means a lot to me and I am more than grateful. When you can't move and someone offers a helping hand they are a more than human...more than a kind soul. How anyone does this by themselves hopefully I'll never have to know, thankfully.



Like climbing we seldom do anything alone. And there is a time when we are all alone and a required to dig deep and run it out. That comes as well. But we never get their by ourselves. Some one helped us get to that.



I rushed to get the shell review done before all this started. I was happy with the end result. It was one more off the tick list of "to dos". I have a huge assortment of gear review projects currently in the works. But they are going to have to wait tillI can write (without chemo brain) and get outside again. Those sorts of thingswill be on hold for a bit as I get through this. Future plans?Cham and maybe the Kahiltna again this spring.I am antzy to this over and get to THAT future. But for now I am living cancer. It will bemy way of life for a short time. The experience willenhance me, not define me.



I learned (again) to never take a day for granted. Never forget you have friends. Take care of them, even when you don't have the time. And be thankful every day above ground. Use those dayswisely! 2nd chances are a wonderful thing :)

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Bicycles and Curb Appeal

By the RiverOne aspect of a bicycle that usually gets omitted from reviews, but I feel is nonetheless important, is "curb appeal" - how noticeable or attractive it is to passers-by (who are not usually bicycle aficionados) at first glance. I've had bicycles in my possession that, while considered excellent and gorgeous by those who know about bikes, are virtually invisible to "normal" people. And then there are bicycles that barely allow me to make it down the street without strangers asking about them.

While it may seem like a superficial thing to care about, the "curb appeal" factor can be important from several perspectives. From the manufacturer's and retailer's point of view, bicycles that are appealing even to those who are not into bikes have the potential to draw in new customers - who may then grow to become serious cycling enthusiasts as a result of the initial lure. From the customer's point a view, a bicycle that is admired by others in their community can enhance their feelings of satisfaction with the purchase and can even result in their riding more often. Even from the point of view of cycling activists, bicycles that are attractive enough to draw in non-cyclists are good news for the obvious reason that they will get more people cycling, or at least thinking about cycling.

On the other hand, some may specifically not want a bicycle with the so-called "curb appeal." Getting constantly approached and asked about one's bike by strangers is a negative thing for those who don't like to attract attention. There may also be a heightened concern of theft to worry about.

Either way, I feel that the extent to which a bicycle is appealing to and noticed by the general public is meaningful and worth mentioning when discussing bicycle design. Have you noticed the "curb appeal" of your bicycle?

Thursday, November 20, 2008

The 44th Regiment at Shiloh :: The Photo

This is the second of two photographs from the display at the visitor center at Shiloh National Battlefield.

The caption for this photo reads “The men of the 44th Indiana Infantry Regiment display their arms and accoutrements before the battle.” Written in the lower right corner is “Comy H 44 Ind”

The close-ups below begin from the left hand side of the above photograph. There is some overlap in the close-ups so some men will appear on more than one of the pictures.




Exploring by Land

While we were having fun on the boat, we came across this place that we just so happened to hit the tide right so we could get out and explore by land some. This had the kids very excited! The boys hopped out and pulled us as close to shore as possible. Austin carried Lauren so she didn't have to deal with water creatures.

After walking across some very, very slimy water and dodging jelly fish, we hit the land. Once we hit land, we were all super excited about this venture.

The kids rushed ahead to see what exactly was here. They liked the bird blind. Josh filled us in on what he thought this place was all about. Josh knows everything about everything, so we learned a lot!

We all liked the nature we found there. Can't you just smell the sand and sea salt?

Sometimes we approach learning differently in our households. Sometimes it looks very similar. Today was an example of where we approach learning in the same way. In both our homes, it is a daily thing where learning looks just like what you see here. Someone finds something interesting and eventually you find the whole gang gathered around discussing it.

Well, except for Josh...who has his own path to explore at the moment!

I love how we will all roll up into the learning and enjoy it together, each adding something to the experience. It's one of the things I most enjoy about traveling with Daryl and Diana. So what kinds of goodies did we find?

Pretty cool, huh? Diana graciously took a picture of us, and right after that my battery died so I did not get one of them.

This place ended up being so awesome, I'm putting it down as one of my faves. It's been a long time since I did that, so I guess we were due one! Thanks, Daryl and Diana for making our day so great.



Living the life in beautiful Virginia!

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Classic Car Museum in Sarasota, FL

After visiting the plantation, we drove over to visit the Sarasota Classic Car Museum. It is located across the street from the Ringling Museum.

Every time we visit Ringling, I want to visit the car museum but we just haven't managed to get there until now. I love classic cars. In fact, I love them more than the guys in the family do. So Nathan humored me to visit here, and Austin opted out and stayed in the front lobby and ate ice cream.

Well, that's not true...before he sat and ate ice cream, he did humor me with one photo op picture:

He has been pestering us about driving since he obtained his learner's permit, so I teased him that he could drive that car anytime he wanted to! Back to the museum...this is the second oldest continuously running car museums in our nation. There are over one hundred cars inside. They had a fabulous collection.



The very best part of it all was the unexpected surprise that had Austin kicking himself for not wandering past the lobby. There were four Beatles cars there! So cool to find that here!

I loved this place! So glad we did make it inside today.



Living the life in Florida!

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Wordless Wednesday :: Pot of Geraniums

Pot of Geraniums. Columbia City, Indiana. September 11, ...Copyright © .. by Rebeckah R. Wiseman.

Blue Ice, the new Warthog alpine pack!



Finally back to some alpine climbing content! It is almost August after all...skiing has to stop some time right? Well for the moment anyway...I want another run from the top of Rainier beforeI am done skiing for the season!



If you have seen this:



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//01/my-climbing-pack.html



You know I am into really basic climbing packs. And I continue to use really simple climbing packs. Once in awhile I get side tracked and try the newest options that interest me. Of course I have used the olderBlue Ice packs, the 45, the 30 and the Mono among others. But I am pretty set in what I think works.



The Mono has kept my attention but I've been too lazy to get that review done. Some how it seems a conflict of interest since I sell Blue Ice gear as well. And the fact my wife has stolen my personal Mono. Hard to write it up. I'll work on that review when she is out of town and I have my hands on the Mono again.



But the new Warthog is hard to ignore (as you can see by the color). No way anyone is sneaking this one off without me knowing. So I am going to give you my take on it now before it happens.



If you look at the custom CCW packs I have Randy make for myself(30L) you'll likely notice the similarities of theBlue Ice Warthog (27L)my custom packsand the original, stellarCCW Ozone. First is they are very close in size, with the Warthog being the smallest of the bunch.. Second they are are really simple packs with very complicated and intricate patterns, which takes ahigh degree of skill to sew.



I'd really like to take credit for some of the Warthogs design work. But sadly I can't. Not even a tiny bit. I first saw the early prototypes of the Warthog at the Blue Ice officeslast March. I was impressed then because it is a pack I mighthave designed if given the chance. More impressed now that I have one in hand.



I probably mentioned this once before. Back in Marchone of my partners was looking in Snell's (all over Cham actually) for a new climbing pack. Randy wasn't interested in more pia custom work. So Matt was out of luck on a custom CCW piece. Of the two walls full of new packs at Snells' only oneGrivel and one Blue Ice offering interested him. Which should tell you a lot about the currently available climbing packs. He made a trip to the Grivel factory first. And his choice in packswas eventually found worthy on the Ginat among other climbs that winter and spring.



As good as the pack he has is, too bad he didn't get to see this one.



I try lots out a lot of gear. But having a full set of made to order customsacs kinda limits my interest in other climbing sacs. It isn't easyto live up to my admittedly harsh and very critical standards for a climbing pack. I have put a lot of thought and money into what best works for me. There is no reason to take second best into the mtns.



Enter the newest, Blue Ice pack, the Warthog!



Love the color. I Iikethat the pack issmall, lightand simple. It actually fills the "small pack"gap in my pack line up. Same kind of sac both Randy and I like a lot but no one seems to be able to sell consistently.Good shoulder straps on this one and a easily adjustable sternum strap on sliders.





the Sternum straps misaligned on purpose

Two different thicknesses on the foam used in the shoulder strap. The thicker stuff is set high in the strap where it can take the bulk of the load. Straps areattached to the bagvia small wings sewn tothe pack body. And sewn cord loops on the straps as well. Nice detail.The narrowand unpadded waist belt is tape with a buckle and easily removable. The perfect choice for this pack. The bottom of the bag is reinforced but not dbl. layered. All the tie in points are reinforced and ARE dbl layered. Nice detailing. I'll say that a lot in this review. It is worth repeating.





reinforced sewing and taped seams

All the seams are taped internally. Shoulder straps tighten by pulling them down.There is a full size (water bladder) internal hydration pocket that has been pleated and bellowed. It makes a full badder easy to fit.





Hydration pocket and more taped seams

Again nice detailing. A Velcro hydration hose holder as well.

Thin foam pad is sewn into the pack.Call it a bivy pad or just pack padding. Either would be accurate. But it is not removable.





The packs back has a definitive "S" cut to the back panel. Huge advantage for fit on asimple climbing pack.

The rather pronounced S shaped bottom of the back panel from the side



Single lid strap for hold down. Lid is sewn on tightly to the pack's top hem. And the straps are the right length. Elastic keepers on every strap, shoulders, waist and lid. Another great detail. Lid isperfectly sized to covera fully loaded pack with the skirt drawn tight. None of this stuff is easy to do or more importantly, easy to do right. There is a hole for your hydration hose through both pack and lid. And a single rope strap that is fixed via a Fast Tex style nylon buckles made by Duraflex. Pack is actually sewnin Vietnam under Blue Ice'sand Giovanni's personal supervision..The lid has three (yes three) pockets all YKK zippers Two of them are on the out side and one underneath the lid.



The small back pocket also holds a net of sorts that is easy to deploy or store back in the pocket when not in use. It is made to attach your helmet easily to a full pack. Helmets aren't the only itemthe netwill hold, just the most obvious. Jackets pants, skinsor crampons can just as easily be stashed under the net Slick design work on this one. Did I mention I like the color combo. It is going to be great for pictures:)



The "hair net" on top of the pack



Crampons can go under the lid, with the rope strap holding them in placewith the pack body offering some protection from sharp points.There are two traditional ice axe holders on the pack..both with reinforced dbl layering sewn through attachments. Easy enough to securely lash on a toola little less traditional. A small quick link in place of the mini biners would be evencleanerbut I was going with a quick"green" solution. A little imagination here will go far if you are using the newest technical tools. Should be little worry onthat one.





Wow! Some sweet looking Nomic hammers there :)http://coldthistletools.blogspot.com/





The pack closeson a 3" skirt with a single draw string closure. The haul loop is flat 3/4" nylon tape that is folded in thirds and sewn to make an easier to managehaul loop which can be connected to the axe upper tabs as well for a 3 point lift. Again a nice detail. The backpanel on my early production pack is a full 18". Surprisingly, it is a size I can work with on this pack. Long shoulder straps and a good pattern on the back panel allow it to fit my long back.



Short or tall most will be able to get a good fit with this pack. It is a climbing pack, and there is plenty of head clearance while looking up with the helmet of your choice when the pack is fully loaded up.



Cost: 78 Euro

Directly from Blue Ice (it should be close to that here in the US)

Weight is 1# 10.4oz or 750g...on my digital scale. Right on!

Pack material is Cordura, with a pack cloth externally and a smother material against your back and skin on the shoulders.

I can carry 20 to 25 lbs this one. That is more than Iwant to climb with for weight. Less is always better given the option.





Rope strap, hydration hose hole and short skirt

How big is 27 Liters? The pack will just hold two 60m 10.5 ropes in the main bag. With two ropes you can still get the cuff closed, if only barely. A one liter water bottle, will fit in thetop lid pocket witha tiny bit of spaceto spare for the odd packet of GU to keep you running or the odd bite to eat if you pack small. Pull out the netfor your helmet or other pieces of gear/clothing as required.





John Bouchard BITD with a Karrimore climbing a new mixed route onthe Grands Charmoz, August 1975 withSteve Zajchowski.

I need to add a few words aboutBlue Ice. I am pretty sure everyone in the office climbs. Easy when you live and work in the best alpine climbing environment i nthe world! Easy to see the influence by the design work, like the Boa, the Chouca and now the Warthog that the designers know what they are looking for. By my acocunt some serious energy and effort went into this pack. It is the first off the shelf, production,alpine pack I have seen in several decades that I will climb with. For those that do remember the old Karrimore Joe Brownpackor a Chouinard Fish pack,the Warthogis better done than either and in modern materials but very similarfor what they weredesigned for.It is a simple sac. And for those that actually know what it is to be used for (single push alpinism) it is simply a stellar design, with a great attention to detail and sewn very well. It is obvious to me it comes from a group of climbers serious about making good kit...not just any bit ofkit. Bravo to Blue Ice forthe effort!



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//02/light-is-always-right-part-duex.html



The party line?



Weight:



720 gr. (mine came out a bit more @ 750g)

Features:

■helmet holder

■top lid with external & internal pocket

■chest buckle with security whistle

■rope attachment under the lid

■dual ice axe holders

■hydration-compatible

■removeable hipbelt

■safety pocket with key holder



Finishing:

■high quality Duraflex buckles

■durable YKK zipper



Fabrics/material:

Main: 500 denier CORDURA®

Reinforced bottom: 1000 denier CORDURA®

Lining: Nylon ripstop 210D



To build a highly resistant pack we have chosen to work with CORDURA®. CORDURA® is one of the most durable nylon fabric manufactured to date and it is widely used for high end applications and for producing gear where tearing and abrasion resistance are crucial. Moreover, the CORDURA® we use, is certified by Blue Sign, which is an important factor for our philosophy of minimizing our impact on the environment. Read more about CORDURA® on our technologies page.



Product overview:Minimalist backpack for fast and demanding one day ascents.





Design & features:The Warthog 26L is a light, extremely resistant backpack with all the essential accessories you need and nothing more. This is the ideal backpack for light and fast one day climbs on technical routes: it is compact to allow freedom of movement and it is super resistant for the most demanding conditions.



As the larger Blue Ice packs the Warthog can hold two ice axes. The simple system of webbing loops and cord locks allows not only a quick attachment but also a steady hold. Additional features are rope holder, helmet holder, exit for hydration tube and a removable hip belt.



Thanks to its stability, shape, volume and comfort it has proven an excellent pack not only for climbing but also for back country days when skis are to be kept on the feet during the whole ascent.

Ideal uses: single day climbs, mountaineering







(Agreed 100% btw on that observation and bet you'll see someCham ski guidesusing the Warthog next winter. Might be a wise color choice if so ; )



No way it could be just this easy though to put ski on this pack...or could it? My Se7en Summits strapped right on like the Warthog was made for them. Next test is to see if the axe loops can haul a 6# ski set up.





Saturday, November 15, 2008

Wordless Wednesday - Wall Flower

Somewhere in Indiana. Summer of 1981. Digitized ...Copyright © 1981/.. by Rebeckah R. Wiseman.

California Grape






















A cluster of wild California grapes found on a vine growing in Las Trampas.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Umbilicals again?






Michael: Petzl Quarks with my homemade tethers. Soloing the only hard winter route on Mt. Washington. Note the 4mm cord attached to the spike. I found that the tethers clipped directly to the tool took away from the feel of the swing. The sound interfered with my concentration, also.




all photos courtesy of Micheal Wejchert's collection








This is a guest blog from east coast climber, Michael Wejchert. Hopefully it won't be his last.



More of Michael's writing and adventures can be found here:

http://www.farnorthclimbing.blogspot.com/








Me soloing the Last Gentleman with BD's, Sketchy?












Umbilicals

By Michael Wejchert



"Alpinist 8 had the north face of north twin issue, which came out my sophomore year at college. I think this was the first time I saw anyone going leashless alpine climbing. A couple of years later we had all gone

leashless alpine climbing. I remember Nils Nielsen showing me his prototype BD tethers in Alaska and I modified my old vipers and new Nomics to accommodate. I prodealed the BD umbilicals a couple years ago. I remember feeling liberated alpine climbing but especially soloing. Finally I didn't have to carry leashes for fear of dropping a tool.



For two seasons I soloed up to W15 with BD umbilicals, used them alpine climbing, and dismissed them totally when ice climbing. Then, roped up with my father on a WI3 I soloed weekly, I dropped a Nomic: bumped my knee cruising as quickly as possible and realized that in a lot of other situations, such as runout M5 or so, dropping a tool, even roped up, could spell disaster. I began to look into tethers with more scrutiny.



Black Diamond tethers seemed to have their advantages: light weight, swivels to help avoid tangles, and somewhat strength-rated.



After a trip to Patagonia I also realized that almost all non BD athletes were climbing on homemade, strength rated tethers. Hmmm…



The first time I saw a Black Diamond tether come unclipped was my buddy Ryan Stefiuk’s on the classic cannon climb *Omega.* It wasn’t good timing—warm temperatures, ice coming down on a heady lead—not when you want a gear malfunction. Since then I have witnessed several BD tethers come unclipped on people’s Black Diamond ice tools. SO: a product that comes unclipped, isn’t strength rated (if you fall onto your tethers, they’ll probably break), and is 50 dollars retail? The thought of those little carabiners snapping was nestling deeper and deeper into my subconscious.








Soloing Polar Circus with BD tethers. 3 or 4 years ago now?






There is a massive difference between the demands of hard climbing and the demands of the casual user. Most people with disposable incomes are the latter, and oftentimes climbers have to finagle their own solutions to problems. I made my own tethers using strength rated webbing and Metolius mini-biners. No gimmicks, such as swivels, (which some people buy at the hardwear store), to get in the way. Alpine gear should always be absolutely necessary or have a dual purpose: I can clip my homemades in as daisy chains for rappelling, leave the mini ‘biners and cut up the webbing for bail cord if I have to. Another advantage. I made mine a little longer than arm-length to accomadate for twisting around on pitches. A good idea.








Soloing the mixed finish to Fafnir with a homemade tether attached toa modified Nomic. Great mod, BTW.




This season I’ve climbed almost exclusively on my homemade tethers. I’ve noticed that the swivel doesn’t make enough of a difference for me to miss it. Let’s face it: gear and ropes can and will get tangled in both. Ideally this doesn’t happen and takes some getting used to. On 1-3 pitch ice climbs, sport mixed climbing, and the like, I don’t usually climb with tethers at all. Most of this climbing is done where a screw can be put in at any time, I can rappel, or the terrain is rocky enough that having tools is almost superfluous. Soloing, alpine climbing, and on mulitpitch mixed route, my tools are clipped in, strength-rated, all the time.








Probable 2nd or 3rd ascent of "fat of the land" in Newfoundland withtethers. Ripped off of Ryan Stefiuk's blog:)




http://bigfootmountainguides.com/.








Many friends here in New England putting up new routes always scoffed at my setup when I took them out on Cannon cliff or somewhere but I’ve noticed that more and more, tethers are being used by one time cynics on roped terrain.



The last time I used my BD tethers was on an attempt at the Girdle Traverse of Cannon Cliff. I figured the swivel might help with all the sideways climbing, but found no advantages once the rope got caught in between the swivels. That week, I sold them. Do yourselves a favor and don’t get caught up in marketing hype. Making your own pair or getting a simple, strong pair like the Blue Ice boa is the way to go. That extra margin of safety can make all the difference. Climbers should always be wary of too many moving parts anyhow."



Editor's Note:

I've written several times here about the issues with umbilicals and there use,

More here from previous content but a Google search of Cold Thistle will give you even more..



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//01/ice-tool-umbilicals-repost.html








The simple umbilicals I use in the alpine


Beware here! Any umbilical set up you make is not going to be strong enough to take a fall on and not fail. None of the commercial ones will take a a full weight fall and nothing you will make with climbing webbing will either. You might geta tiny bt stronger than the commercial set ups but the margin for error here is slim to none! DO NOT RELY ON UMBILCALS TO SAVE YOU IN A FALL.



Read Black Diamond's warnings here and pay attention.



http://coldthistle.blogspot.com//04/bd-testswarning-on-umbilicals.html